Jiufen Old Street: cinematic lanes and teahouse atmosphere

Jiufen is about atmosphere: narrow stepped lanes, layered hillside views, and a feeling of stepping into a different pace. It began as a gold-mining town high in Ruifang District, New Taipei—gold was discovered in 1890 and mining boomed through the Japanese colonial era before ceasing in 1971.

After Hou Hsiao-hsien’s 1989 film ‘A City of Sadness’ was set here, the town was revitalized as a tourist destination, and its red-lantern-lit teahouses became some of the most cinematic sights near Taipei. The key to enjoying it is timing—go earlier for breathing room, then slow down.

There are a few routes, and the right one depends on where you start. The classic way is the train from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang (about 30–50 minutes), then bus 788 or 1062 up the hill to Jiufen.

If you’d rather skip the transfer, direct buses run too: bus 1062 from MRT Zhongxiao Fuxing (Exit 1/2), or bus 965 from Ximending.

The pleasure here is wandering. Climb and descend the stepped alleyways, browse street-food and souvenir stalls, and settle into one traditional teahouse for a pot of tea with a hillside view. Aim to be in town as the light fades, when the red lanterns switch on and the lanes take on their famous glow.

Don’t treat Jiufen like a checklist. Wander, snack, choose one calm teahouse moment, then leave before you’re exhausted. The mood matters more than the number of stops.

Be realistic about crowds: weekends and holidays are extremely busy, and evening return queues for buses and trains can run over an hour. Either leave before the peak or build in extra time. Bring a light rain layer—the mountain town is frequently misty or wet.